Transplant Shock Care and Control

How to Manage Plant Shock After Transplanting

Trees, shrubs and perennials that have been transplanted may suffer transplant shock.  Plants with transplant shock can be stunted or may die altogether.  You can prevent transplant shock by following these tips.

What is Transplant Shock

Transplanting a plant from where it has been growing is stressful for the plant.  Think of how stressful moving from one home to another is for humans.  The plant may not be able to tolerate the move and aftercare.  It may continue to decline and ultimately die.  Even if it survives, the plant will be stunted and weak.  Trees, shrubs, and perennials that die within a year of being transplanted have been unable to recover from being moved.

Symptoms of Transplant Shock

Transplant shock causes symptoms that are also caused by other problems. When evaluating the tree's problem, remember that it can take 3-5 years for trees and shrubs to become established. Here are some common symptoms of transplant shock. The tree declines, the canopy thins, and some branches may die.  Leaves may be scorched or burned. 

They may be dropped too early in the fall.  The stem doesn’t grow or is stunted.  Plants won’t produce flowers. Conversely, some plants put on too much fruit or seeds.  The plant doesn’t put on leaves as early as it should in the spring.  Finally, the plant may suffer from secondary diseases or pests.

Causes of Transplant Shock

A host of problems can cause transplant shock. Poor Plant Material If you start with a plant stressed by drought, pests, diseases, or poor care, the plant is more likely to experience transplant shock.  If the plant suffers injuries while being dug up and readied for transplant, this sets that plant up for pest problems.  If the root ball is too small, it will not be able to support the top growth. 

This is an error on the part of the plant nursery.  Plants that dry out between being dug up at the nursery and being planted in the new site can suffer root damage, which negatively affects the rest of the plant.  If the tree is large and is carried on an open truck without the leaves and twigs sheltered from the wind, the tree is more likely to die.

Poor Site Choice

It will have difficulty getting established if the plant doesn’t grow in your USDA hardiness zone.  It may not live through the winter.  If a shade-loving plant is planted in the full sun, or a plant that needs full sun is planted in the shade, it will not do well.  Clay soil tends to hold moisture and can keep the roots too wet, causing root rot.  Soil that is compacted makes it hard for the roots to get established.

Poor Transplanting Techniques

Do not let the root ball dry out or freeze before being planted.  Plants planted in the fall are more likely to thrive.  The roots have more time to grow before the heat of summer.  Plants that are handled roughly are likely to be injured during planting.  Injuries make it easier for pests and diseases to spread into the plant.  If the planting hole is too small, it crowds the roots. 

Remove all twine, burlap, wires, staples, and other foreign object when planting.  Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole.  It burns the roots. Poor Care After Transplant Improper watering kills many plants.  The soil should be kept moist, not dry or wet.  Fertilizers applied around the new plant, especially if the turf is fertilized under a tree or shrub, can trigger too much growth at the top. 

The roots cannot provide the new development with enough water and nutrients, so they die back.

Treating Transplant Shock

If the plant is not doing well because its needs are unmet, move it in during the dormant season and relocate it to a better location. Prune any dead branches to stimulate growth. Water it appropriately to keep the soil moist but not wet or dry. Apply mulch as needed. With time, plants may recover.

Preventing Transplant Shock

Preventing transplant shock is much easier than treating it. Proper planting techniques will go a long way toward avoiding transplant shock. Ensure the roots do not dry out, freeze, or become exposed to high temperatures before planting. Plants that experience these conditions start stressed and can’t cope with being moved. Holes should be two and a half times the size of the root ball and deep enough to accommodate it. The plant's root flare or crown should sit at the same level as the surrounding soil. 

Roughen the sides of the hole so they do not glaze over. Roots can’t penetrate the glazed parts of the soil, so they will circle and eventually girdle the tree. Remove all packing materials from the plant.  This includes burlap, wire, and tags.  Packing material will damage the roots and trunk.  The wire will girdle the plant when it grows, and the wire tightens around it.  If a container-grown plant has roots circling the in the container, you will need to cut the circling root off so it will grow outward.  Otherwise, it just keeps circling.

Make sure the site you have selected meets the plant’s needs

Check the amount of sunlight, soil moisture pH, and wind a location receives. Plants do better if they are planted when dormant.  This is after leaf drop in the fall and before bud break in the spring.  The fall lets plants develop strong, deep roots before summer heat to draw enough water and nutrients up to meet their needs. Many people put compost or amended soil in the hole when they plant it. 

Do not use anything but the soil that came out of the hole.  Otherwise, the roots will grow in a circle around the hole. When filling the hole, put a 2–3-inch layer of mulch over the entire root zone. Mulch conserves soil moisture and stabilizes the soil during temperature swings. It also helps prevent mowers and string trimmers from hitting the trunk.

Put mulch down like a bagel—a mulch-free zone of 2-3 inches around the trunk or stem, mulch out to the end of the canopy and rootball, then stop the mulch. Young thin-skinned trees, like maples, honey locusts, and apples, will get sunscald after leaf drop.  To prevent that, wrap the tree with tree wrap, which is thick paper, from the ground to the first branch.  Do the wrapping before the first freeze. 

Remove it in the spring after the danger of frost has passed

Do this the first three winters after transplanting the tree.  After that, the bark becomes thick enough to protect the tree. Plants must be watered deeply once a week until they are established.  This may be 3-5 years for trees like maples and oaks.  Perennials are usually established after one year.

TN Nursery offers only the best bare-root plants. Call us at 931.692.7325 to start beautifying your landscape today.